A conversation on collagen

Collagen seems to have achieved quite a following this year! Great for skin hydration, skin repair and regeneration, scar prevention (e.g., post-procedure, acne) and protects from free radical damage. It also helps with the dreaded cellulite! But not all collagen products are equally as effective.

Hydrolysed collagen (HC) which provides hyaluronic acid, has been shown in clinical studies to support collagen formation, skin structure and elasticity, and overall skin health. Collagen peptides have been shown to inhibit enzymes involved in breaking down collagen at the dermis (outer layer of the skin). It is a type 1 collagen which is the main collagen found in skin and is highly digestible and is easily absorbed and distributed in the human body. Collagen has been shown to improve connective tissue structure and the thickness of skin density, ultimately leading to a reduction in cellulite appearance.

With chronological ageing, the ability to replenish collagen decreases naturally by about 1.5% a year. (Not fair!) There is a loss of type 1 collagen and the density of the collagen and elastin in the dermis declines, causing the skin to become thinner and more rigid.

Furthermore, a weakened connective tissue framework plays a key role in the pathophysiology of cellulite. In cellulite which affects up to 90% of post-pubertal females, less dense connective tissue structure leads to the profusion of adipose tissue in the dermis, reduced skin elasticity and skin thinning.

Hydrolysed collagen has been shown to improve connective tissue structure and dermal tissue density, ultimately leading to a reduction in cellulite appearance. A randomised controlled trial investigated the effects of 2.5g/d of hydrolysed collagen for six months in a group of 97 females with cellulite. In women with a normal body mass index (BMI <25), cellulite scores reduced by 9%, while in overweight women (BMI >25), they reduced by 4%. Skin waviness (a measure of skin surface profile) reduced by 11.1% in whose with a BMI <25 and 3.6% in BMI more than 25.

Oxidative damage is an important factor of skin ageing. Exposure to UV radiation from the sun increases oxidative damage to the skin. In fact, around 80% of the visible signs of skin ageing may be caused by exposure to UV rays. Besides sunlight, other external factors such as excessive alcohol consumption, air pollution, smoking, nutritional deficiencies and poor diet can accelerate the loss of both collagen and hyaluronic acid from the skin and thereby contribute to photo (extrinsic) ageing.

Both intrinsic (chronological) and extrinsic (photo) ageing are characterized by degraded collagen and reduced collagen synthesis and leads to the loss of elasticity and impaired wound healing.

Thus, collagen fibre degeneration is a key component of the structural changes in skin ageing. Therefore, optimizing collagen structure and function can be beneficial in minimizing skin changes associated with ageing.

Hydrolysed collagen increases the production of procollagen type 1 (the most common protein and makes up 90% of the human body) and elastin. It also inhibits the enzymes involved in collagen breakdown. (MMP1 and MMP2) hyaluronic acid has been shown to increase the proliferation of dermal fibroblasts that are responsible for collagen and elastin production. Moreover, hyaluronic acid binds to and retains water molecules, thus moisturizing the skin. (See previous post on vaginal dryness.)